This was to not cover the holes by the heatbreak because of their spacing. Before I drilled the three small holes, I added an indentation with a 3.2 mm drill on the opposite side of the hex. The blank looked the same as with the simple adapter. These are now long enough to give me room to make both sides flat and also shorten the hex to only around 1.5 mm. So I also ordered some 16 mm ones from overseas that fortunately arrived faster than expected. Then there is the hex, which is pretty deep and would form a significant cavity I’m sure wouldn’t be good for performance and also during retractions. The longest I found were 10 mm, and since I had to remove some material on both sides to make them flat, they are barely long enough. Unfortunately, finding brass grub screws of suitable length here in Germany was quite tricky. Therefore I used brass grub screws that have a 3 mm hex on one side that we can use for tightening. Well, unfortunately not as simple because you need a way to somehow install it, hence threading it into the heater block, so it also seals to the heatbreak and the nozzle. The spacer I made is simply a piece of brass with an M6 thread on the outside and a bore on the inside. The difference in length between a regular V6 nozzle and a volcano nozzle is 8.5 mm. He’s been using it for years on his speed printing projects and helped me out with all the questions I had! Please check him out! I highly appreciate the input from Nitram on this method. We can use a similar approach to use a CHT nozzle in a volcano hotend. To fill the gap between the heatbreak, they simply added a spacer. I’ve heard that they wanted to use longer heater blocks with standard nozzles. Fortunately, there are some clever high flow hotend owners around that have been using a solution for this problem already for a while. Unfortunately, adding these is quite a bit of effort, limits operating temperatures depending on the solder you’re using, and due to the patent on the Core Heating Technology is something that’s not commercially feasible. One solution might be adding a bunch of copper wires perpendicular to the flow direction, which I also recently showed and that can have similar effects as the sophisticated internal structure of a CHT nozzle. The thing is, there are no CHT nozzles for volcano hotends because adding these tilted bores is hardly possible on such a length and might only work with EDM, which is an expensive process. If you want to know more about the Core Heating Technology, please check out that video! In the end, I concluded that volcano hotends are obsolete because just changing a simple nozzle improves your machine’s performance more than switching to a longer and heavier volcano hotend. I showed in a recent video how I was able to increase the melting performance of my 3D printer and, therefore, the possible printing speed by replacing my standard brass nozzle with Bondtechs CHT nozzle, which can melt materials way more efficiently with a special internal structure.
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